The Wine Bus.

So you’re at a nice dinner but can’t decide what wine to order. You invite the sommelier over to your table and ask for a recommendation. “What kind of wine do you like?” is the obvious question back to you.

“I don’t know,” you reply. “I like a little bit of everything… as long as it’s red.”

“Okay,” the somm responds. “Do you prefer New World wines or Old World wines?” Which perhaps you’ve never thought about before.

“You mean, like, European wines versus California?”

“Exactly. Old World most commonly refers to Europe, from Spain and Italy in the south, up through France, and into Germany in the north. New World refers to North America, South America, and Australia / New Zealand.” The sommelier is smiling now and warming to her task.

“So is there a big difference between Old World and New?” you ask.

“Tons,” she responds, “but the biggest single difference lies in the balance between the fruit and the earth. With New World wines, fruit is typically “driving the bus,” and you’ll catch that fruit-centered character both in the aroma and on the palette. When it comes to the Old World, the fruit is definitely on the bus, but it’s not driving.”

You ponder that a moment. “Well, if fruit isn’t driving the bus, what is?”

“Great question! Typically it’s the earthy flavors of the wine supported by acidity. There are, of course, a massive diversity among Old World wines, and over time you’ll be able to taste the difference between, say, French and Spanish wines, but as a generalization, European wines carry more flavors of leather, smoke, hay, and stone as a dominant presence. And then the fruit—usually described as red, black, or blue—lies underneath the earth.”

“Fascinating,” you reply. “Can you give me a glass of your favorite Old World and New World so I can compare for myself?”

“Absolutely!” By now, you have a new best friend, and she’s so delighted by your interest in her passion that she brings you an entire flight to taste: a Pinot Noir from Willamette, Oregon to contrast with a Pinot from Burgundy, France. A Malbec from Mendoza, Chile to compare with a Malbec from Bordeaux. And a Zinfandel from Sonoma to taste side-by-side with a Zinfandel (called Primitivo) from Puglia, Italy.

Wow, it’s hard to believe they are actually the same grapes because the terroir (the growing conditions) in each place are so radically different. Not to mention the viticultural and enological styles. Who’s driving the bus is a great analogy for lots of things (as I explore this week in my post on the ego), but I first learned it in the context of wine.

Try your own taste test today by comparing the same grape from Old World and New World. Which is your favorite and why?

Salute and Cheers!