Advent-urous?

Exploring the spirituality of wine is a way to develop a theology for all of life – and a theology of joy.

~ Gisela Kreglinger

In our last vino-post, we explored wine options for Thanksgiving dinner. And now, suddenly, Christmas is upon us. Both holidays in general and family gatherings in particular, invite us to explore the fruit of the vine and find those magical pairings that enhance both food and drink. Let’s talk Christmas dinner. Let’s talk beef.

So granted, there are lots of great options for Christmas dinner that aren’t beef. Duck, lamb, turkey, ham, venison, and other game meats are all festive. But for me, the quintessential Christmas dinner is a beef standing rib roast! Are you with me?

If that’s your bent too, then gear up and let’s go exploring. There are two big ideas that will differentiate Christmas wine from Thanksgiving wine (since we are contrasting beef with poultry): body and tannin. With poultry, we were looking for light to medium reds or even full-bodied whites. With beef, we’re looking for bigger and bolder. Yes, Pinot Noir is a safe bet for just about any dish there is…but this is your chance to go big. So let’s go big!

Tannin is a natural substance found in plants, seeds, bark, wood, leaves, and fruit skins (including grape skins) that show up in some degree in many red wines (and occasionally in white). Generally, it is the wine skins, pips (seeds), stems and then the oak cask where the wine is aged that impart tannin in varying degrees to red wines. Tannin in wine, says Alan Tardy, adds both bitterness and astringency, as well as complexity. And the style of winemaking greatly affects the amount of tannin that winds up in the bottle. Heavy tannins are often associated with aging potential and soften over time, but that’s a topic for another day. What you need to know for Christmas is that the tannins in wine stand up to and complement the fat content in beef. Especially a rib roast.

So here are my top picks for wines with the body and tannin to pair well with a rib roast. (Please cook your beef between medium-rare and medium, about 125 degrees internally; then cover it with foil and let it rest for 20 minutes)…

  • Cabernet Sauvignon. No surprises here. Widely revered as the “king of wines,” a hearty Cab is the classic choice for beef…but don’t go just grabbing any old Cab off the shelf. Inexpensive Cabs are often over-fruity and too round on the tannins to do justice to a rib roast. If you don’t know the wine personally, ask someone knowledgeable for a truly robust label. If you’re on a budget, I recommend J. Lohr (around $16), and if you want to invest a bit more (about $40), try Honig.

  • Malbec. Frequently found in California and Bordeaux blends, skip those and go for the mother ship: the Mendoza region of Argentina. Not only will you find this wine even denser than many Cabs, you’ll tap into the unmistakable “stink” of South America, which by the way is a good thing! Barnyard, wet forest floor, leather, and tobacco are all prominent descriptors of South American reds, and—especially with a rib roast, those flavors form a winning combination. Budget pick: Alamos Malbec Seleccion (~$16). Afficionado pick: Achaval Ferrer Quimera (~$35).

  • Shiraz. Continuing up the density chart, Shiraz is essentially the Aussie version of Syrah, taken from France down under in the 19th century. And there’s no Shiraz like Barossa Shiraz, a region in South Australia (about where Texas would be in relation to the States). Known for its flavor notes of the Eucalyptus trees that grow all around the grapes, this is one yummy choice. My pick is Tait Ball Buster (a blend that is mostly Shiraz) at around $22.

  • Douro. Okay, this is a region, not a varietal, and it’s located in Portugal. Arguably the densest wine on the planet, it’s also remarkably alluring. While there are a number of grapes in this region, the widest planted is Touriga Nacional, which just happens to be the primary grape used in Port…so there you go. Rich, dark, dense, provocative. Yes please. Try Quinta Das Carvalhas at $20-25. (I also love their Late Bottled Vintage Port at the same price point… for after Christmas dinner!)

So many choices, so little time. Actually, you have all the time in the world because these wines aren’t just for Christmas, they’re for any great beef-centric dinner that you’d like to savor. So be Advent-urous and try something new this season. And then let me know your experience.

Whatever your choice, remember to drink in moderation and with gratitude to the Lord of the Vines.

L’Chaim! To life!

Jerome Daley